22 Days in Beijing, Part 4

Day 16. We were on the road by 7:30 in the morning riding a rented sedan driven by a pleasant Chinese gentleman who spoke very little English. Monday traffic going out of the city was at snail's pace. First we made a stop at the Olympic Village where there was a lot of construction work going on. It was so hazy out there it was hard to tell if it was fog or smog or maybe both. Of course, we did the tourist thing and took pictures with the awesome Bird's Nest, site of the Opening Ceremony, as backdrop. Too bad the Aquatics Center was closed for viewing that day.

The Bird's Nest under construction

The Great Wall Badaling Pass was 55 miles north of Beijing and it took us roughly 2 hours to get there. We had to pay a small fee for entrance tickets which was more than fair for the sights we were about to behold. There was a multitude of tourists but that was easy to ignore considering that we were about to see one of the seven wonders of the world. The Great Wall snaked through the landscape under a dramatic cover of morning mist. It was breathtaking. Unlike her Lolo who chose to be left behind, Indie — as if sensing the importance of her surroundings — climbed with us and refused to be carried. The view was more magnificent from high up the wall. But at some point, I felt a flash of vertigo maybe from standing on a sharp incline. Twink and Nubs felt it too. It was time to go down.

Buying our tickets

Great Wall was highly commercialized, even a little Westernized

The first few steps

Souvenir shot

Trooper Indie climbed like a big girl

The old boy chose to stay behind after hearing the story
of an elderly Filipino who had a heart attack while attempting to climb

Making progress, woohoo!

Indie had milk to recharge

The climb down

From middle ground, we moved further down to a bear zoo. It was a long tiresome walk for Indie's benefit but well worth it since she enjoyed watching the bears so much. There were mini vans that offered to drive tourists back to entry point at exorbitant rates. And rode a van we did!

Taking a break before proceeding to the bear zoo

The bears were cute but fearsome

The van ride to entry point

Lunch was at a dowdy restaurant fronting the entrance of the Great Wall, where the Judge and the driver waited for us. On the table, Beijing-style fare lay ready for consumption. I looked at the three large plates of strange dishes doubtfully and my eyes settled on the one farthest away from me. Strips of bacon swam in a saucy pool of an unappetizing orange color. But I was starving so what the heck. I couldn't believe it was actually delicious. Even Indie liked it.

Smile before you eat

Full and ready to go

Soon we were off to the Summer Palace which, as its name implies, was used as a summer residence by China's imperial rulers. Upon entering, we were greeted by a spectacular panorama of the man-made Kunming Lake and the dragon-decked Chinese boats moving slowly through its waters. We could not see across the lake though for the view was hindered by a thick fog that accompanied the cold weather. Going to Nanhu Island, we walked on the picturesque Seventeen-Arch Bridge. The halls in the small island were under repair and closed for public viewing. Just as we were on our way back from the bridge, there was a sudden downpour so we ran to the exit and into the car. We were not able to finish the tour!

Entrance to the Summer Palace

Kunming Lake and a Chinese boat

Father and daughter

Misty Seventeen-Arch Bridge

The bridge from Nanhu Island

The drive back was the worst bumper-to-bumper traffic we saw in our host city. What a way to cap a long day!


Day 17. Feeling enriched from yesterday's cultural field trip, we immediately went right back to our commercial exploits, setting off to conquer the Ladies Market as early as mid-morning. The goods, particularly the clothes, were a bit too tacky for my taste so I did not buy any. What a waste coming all the way here! But wait, on the way out was a small branded overruns shop that was on sale. And the day was saved.

The stroller was laden with child and finds

We had lunch at a Korean fastfood joint. Food wasn't bad at all. Indie, who would sing between bites, caught the attention of a group of pretty Chinese girls who entertained themselves by watching our little girl's every move. After some time, we crossed the street to browse a row of craft and knickknack stores than headed home.

Look at Indie's mess

The pretty girl in the background and her friends watched Indie as if in a show

Browsing through shops fronting the Ladies Market

Cab home

Before dinner, we brought Indie to the playground where she found a playmate in a little girl named Amber. Her mom and I exchanged small talk and I was surprised she spoke very good English which was certainly not the norm anywhere in China. I later learned mother and daughter were Singaporeans who were there because the father was assigned in Beijing. She seemed happy to meet someone who knew her language and disappointed to find out that we were not Fuli Cheung residents but tourists about to leave in a few days.

Indie loved slides

Indie and Amber

Happy famileh

Day 18. Nubs left early for a job interview somewhere in the Winterless Hotel area, after which we met up with him in an upscale mall much like Greenbelt 4 or 5. We had lunch at the food court that was very different from what we have here, with interiors and furnishings good enough for our fine dining establishments.

We took the subway to Haidian district, quite far from Chaoyang District where we were staying, for more shopping. We went to 2 malls, both Shoppesville-like in appearance and went home with 3 ridiculously large plastic bags of purchases.

Later, I asked Nubs how the interview went. He said they didn't pay well and my hopes of living in the city of fabulous finds were quashed a little too soon.


Day 19. The morning, with the sun partially hidden by clouds, was perfect for a Temple of Heaven visit. There was a modest sum we had to pay for 2 tickets, one for entrance to the park and another, to the temple itself. The garden was vast and there was a lot of walking needed. It was not tiring though because, apart from the cool weather, there was beauty everywhere we looked — towering century-old trees amid graceful landscaping, an old musician playing an unfamiliar Chinese instrument, shutter-worthy glimpses of the world famous hall at varying angles. We went beyond smaller replicas of Forbidden City's enormous gates to a courtyard from where we had an excellent view of the majestic Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests against the blue sky. We climbed the stairs of marble stones to the circular structure. The inside was cordoned off but we could see its impressive decorations from where we stood. Indie was game the whole time but got a bit tired so we cut the tour short. We were already happy with what we had seen anyway.

On the way to the famous temple

Indie ran as if she was in a playground

Interior shot of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests

The detailing was superb and guess what...

...not a single nail was used to build the awe-inspiring structure

The free map was souvenir-worthy

Milk break against the bloody red walls

After lunch, we were off to the Immigration office to claim our visas. It was quick and hassle-free until the misfortune that befell me. I was unable to hold my bladder any longer and had to face the ugliest thing about China. The squat toilet. There was an icky puddle from the door leading to the cubicles and the stink had enough strength to make anyone faint. But then again, what could be worse than falling on your back on a wet floor in a revolting toilet exactly like the one I was in? I'm proud to say, I survived. (If you're wondering how I side-stepped going to the toilet for more than 2 weeks already, the secret was depriving myself of water when we were out and taking it only in the comforts of the home. Of course, I'm not recommending this to anyone.)

After a horrifying experience, we went someplace I was most comfortable at, a mall. This quaint spot in Ritan was a cluster of 3 bi-level structures of branded overrun stores among others. Shopping was fantastic here as can be gleaned from the number of bags in our hands when we came out of the building.

Warren and Twink treated us to dinner on the roof deck of an expensive-looking restaurant also in Ritan. Everybody, Indie included, made a go for the night's special. Except me. I hated onions so I sampled the duck but not the Peking duck. Anyway, this was made by lining a pita-like wrapper with onions, sauce and duck of course. (Can't remember the other stuffings though.) Everyone looked happy with the food. Yes, even me. The duck was tender and very tasty indeed.

On our way to dinner

As if she could read already!

Taking time to order

Nub sampling the Peking duck

It was videoke night so we stopped at a small expat grocery to get Tsingtao Beer, wine, cheese and Coke Light for the non-drinker that was me. Warren was blessed with a good singing voice and the Judge was a revelation. As for Twink, Nubs and me, let's just say we did our best. We took turns with the microphone and I was enjoying myself. Until the old boy sang "My Way". It was my late father's all-time favorite and it was his voice that I was hearing. I quietly left the room and cried for a long time.

Singers for a night

Day 20. After breakfast, we moved the mounting pile of shopping bags of clothes, shoes, handbags, Ikea wares, Chinese souvenirs, etc. from our bedroom to the living room. It was time to pack. We could hear Indie and the Wonder Friends singing, "What's gonna work, team work," the unofficial theme song of this trip. And so we filled one large suitcase then another. Then 2 oversize duffel bags. Then a big balikbayan box. Still, lots of stuff remained on the floor. Nubs rushed to the nearby post office to buy 2 more medium-sized boxes. And so on to another round of packing until, finally, the floor was clear. It was 5 o'clock pm.

After an hour, we went back to The Place mall where Twink bought Indie a pair of Crocs, a farewell present. By the way, Crocs were cheaper here by Php300. Indie got a chance to see the LED-screen ceiling this time.

Watching intently

Then we moved to Carrefour to buy groceries to bring home—cheese, chips, dried dates and many others. Dinner was a quick one at KFC. On the ride home, we passed by a very entrepreneurial Chinese man who offered his services as a barber to any willing pedestrian. Too bad I wasn't able to video the scene.

Ice cream at Carrefour

Wine and cheese till 3am

Day 21. Our last day in Beijing was spent in a daze. First, the frame shop. Then last minute shopping from one place to another. We found more souvenirs in a place much like Hongquiao Market. Nubs and I wanted to go to a Shanghai Tang store but it was out of the way so Warren brought us to Remito instead. We were so lucky to chance upon a pair of delicate salt and pepper shakers of bone china to add to our collection. Then we went back to the Holiday Inn overrun store. Among my purchases, the I'm-not-a-plastic-bag tote which I passed up on last time we were there and a pair of Nine West heels which I was forced to sell back home because they were a little too tight on my toes.

Nub's painting now framed

Outside the Hongquiao-like building

Remito behind us

Our farewell Beijing dinner was hot pot. While waiting for our food, a half-naked man emerged from one of the private rooms and it was such a funny sight I had to cover my mouth to stifle a laugh. That should be the last shocker of this 22-day trip. Then dinner was served. We were each given a simmering metal pot of stock. On the lazy susan were several choices of dishes such as leafy vegetables, thinly-sliced beef, squid balls, quail eggs, etc. The stock was lacking in taste, to think everything depended on it. I must say, Twink's hot pot was a lot better. Of course, it was a new experience, given that we were in an authentic, elaborately designed Chinese hot pot restaurant.

Table setting was not among their talents

Picking vegetables to cook in the pot

Indie posing in front of a wall art within the resto

Outside the hot pot place

We took souvenir shots of our home of 22 days, packed our personal effects in our handcarry and called it a night, ready for our 11 am flight.

Clockwise: underground parking, building entrance from
parking area, elevator, apartment number on the door

Day 22. We were up and about by 6 o'clock and were on our way to the airport by 8. We said our goodbyes at the lobby. Warren, had a diplomatic pass so he accompanied us inside, leaving Twink behind. And we were in for a surprise! Our baggage put together was more than 40 kilos overweight. We had to think fast or part with a large amount of cash. So we decided to leave the heavier box behind (Warren promised to send them over little by little through their friends). Still, 10 kilos excess! That was RMB70 per kilo for a total of RMB700. I was running short of yuans so Warren, thankfully, ran to the money changer. We paid around USD100. Before we knew it, our flight was being called. We were the last to board the plane. The half-naked man the night before was not the last shocker after all.

Riding the rented van to the airport

Last shot before we check-in

Our baggage excess papers

The flight was uneventful as expected. Among the passengers, there was an old man in a sour mood because some of his stuff had to be left behind due to a daughter-in-law with shopaholic tendencies. A man of almost forty who tried hard to stop himself from dozing off but failed. A 2-year old girl who refused to sleep for unknown reasons. A woman in her mid-thirties who was dead tired but was taking everything in. Still.

Indie busied herself while her papa slumbered

In 4 hours, Philippine Airlines PR359 was in Philippine soil. Already, Beijing felt remote and faraway. Our only connection, our luggage full of China goods that the customs official eyed with alertness and suspicion.

Indie still managed to pose

Conclusion. It was not hard at all to fall in love with Beijing. I fell for Shanghai once but got over it in a matter of days. I was not so sure about Beijing though, that city of charming contradictions—of rising skyscrapers amid tiled roofs below, of people who take a leap toward the future while clinging to the past.

Will I go back to Beijing? Yes. In spite of her ubiquitous smog, squat toilet and spitting male population. Yes, I shall return. To sit in a cafe by Houhai Lake. To drink a beer with Nubs in a Sanlutin bar. To watch an acrobatic show. To complete our unfinished Forbidden City tour. To see the Summer Palace in winter when the waters of Kunming Lake have turned to ice. To take shots of the Great Wall from a vantage point other than Badaling. Oh yes, I'm longing to go back.

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We'll always be grateful to Twink and Warren for being such generous hosts during that wonderful trip. And Indie should thank her Lolo for taking care of her plane ticket.